I’ve been thinking about how thrilling life can be. One minute you’re in a comfort zone without realizing it and then in a flash you’re paddling your heart out head-on for a large body of water that’s trying to crash down on you. And as you paddle into this wall of a wave your instinctual response, to the sheer amount of fear amongst other things, is to paddle, kick, and dive into the belly of the beast. Just barely scraping past the wave you and your board flop down onto the hard surface water only to keep paddling because you know there is another wave coming; the set had just begun.
A freezing chill runs down your spine but you realize it’s just some of the water from that last wipe out. Fuck, it’s freezing cold.
But you continue because the feeling of this challenge has never felt better. It’s why you put yourself in situations you’re never comfortable in, and why you know the devil in comfort intimately. These waves don’t care about anything except providing you challenge after challenge with no end in site.
Ride a Wave
Surfing is a lot like entrepreneurship. It’s fueled primarily by you and your own will, and encouraged by that group of people in the water with you. It’s still somewhat of a dog-eat-dog world but that bond between soloists is stronger than one might think. It’s incredibly rewarding. It takes an immense amount of time to do it well but you can start and feel empowered immediately.
Good luck. Have fun. And remember to share the waves.